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Skylight Installation Cost Calculator

Estimate 2026 US skylight installation cost by size, type (fixed, vented, tubular), glazing and roof material. Retrofit framing, flashing kit, drywall finish and electrical included.

Skylight Installation Cost Calculator

Estimate 2026 US skylight installation cost by size, type (fixed, vented, tubular), glazing, and roof material — VELUX, Fakro, Sun Tunnel — including flashing kit, retrofit framing, finish, and electrical.

Estimated skylight cost
$2,215
Range: $1,883 – $2,658 · Per unit: $2,215
unit + flashing + framing + finish + add-ons
Skylight units
$720
Flashing kits
$230
Framing / cut-in
$580
Drywall / shaft finish
$340
Add-ons
$0
Permit
$250
Disposal
$95
Total estimate
$2,215

What this calculator estimates

This calculator quotes the all-in installed price for a residential skylight installation in 2026 US dollars. It separates the bill into the actual line items a roofing contractor will write into your quote:

  • Skylight unit — the manufactured glazed assembly, priced by size and type. VELUX, Fakro, Kingspan, Wasco and major-brand units priced at retailer pricing 2026.
  • Flashing kit — manufacturer-spec apron, side, head, and counter-flashing. Required for warranty.
  • Framing / cut-in — for a retrofit, this includes sistering or doubling rafters, headers above and below the rough opening, and re-sheathing the shaved decking. New construction frames the opening at the same time as the rest of the roof, so this line is much smaller.
  • Drywall / shaft finish — closing the interior ceiling around the opening, building a shaft if the attic depth requires it, taping and painting.
  • Add-ons — manual or motorised blinds, rain sensor (for vented units), smart-home hub, new electrical run for an electric/solar unit.
  • Permit — typical municipal building permit fee.
  • Disposal — debris haul-away and dump fee.
  • Weekend / after-hours premium — 25% surcharge.

A minimum service-call floor of $475 applies in most US metros — even a single tubular Sun Tunnel carries that floor because mobilizing a 2-person crew, ladders, fall protection and basic materials is the dominant cost.

How to use it

  1. Count the units — total skylights installed in one mobilisation. Two units on the same slope save labour versus two separate trips.
  2. Pick a size. Small is around 22x22 inches (an 8 in × 14 in opening for a Solatube also goes here). Medium is the most common residential size at 22x46 inches (VELUX FS C04 or similar). Large is 30x46 inches. Oversize is anything above 44 inches in either dimension — a custom or commercial-spec unit.
  3. Pick type. Fixed for stairwells, hallways and hard-to-reach ceilings. Vented manual for kitchens or bathrooms with reachable cranks. Vented electric or solar for premium homes and high ceilings. Tubular for closets and interior bathrooms.
  4. Pick glazing. Insulated double Low-E is the 2026 standard. Laminated adds safety glass for falling-glass containment (recommended over beds and bathtubs). Triple is northern-climate spec, useful in zones 5-8. Tempered Low-E is hurricane and impact-zone spec.
  5. Pick roof material. Asphalt shingle is the cost-neutral baseline. Tile, slate and standing-seam metal raise the flashing labour because the courses must be carefully cut and re-bedded around the unit.
  6. Pick work scope. Retrofit (cut a new opening) is the most common scenario and includes framing, flashing, and drywall finish. New construction (the framing crew leaves a rough opening ready for the skylight) is significantly cheaper because the framing and drywall lines drop.
  7. Set storey count. Labour multiplier is 1.0x for single-storey, 1.18x for two-storey, 1.42x for three-storey or higher because of staging and fall-protection requirements.
  8. Toggle add-ons. Blinds, rain sensor, smart hub, new electrical run, permit, disposal, and weekend premium each adjust the total.

Typical 2026 US skylight installation cost ranges

These ranges reflect 2026 nationwide pricing pulled from HomeAdvisor’s Skylight Cost Guide, Angi True Cost Report, NRCA contractor surveys, and direct quotes from VELUX-certified installers in major US metros during Q1 2026.

Configuration (asphalt shingle, retrofit, single storey)2026 installed price
Tubular skylight (Sun Tunnel / Solatube, 10-14 in)$620 – $1,250
Small fixed skylight (22x22)$980 – $1,820
Medium fixed skylight (22x46)$1,650 – $3,200
Medium vented manual (22x46)$2,150 – $3,950
Medium vented electric / solar (22x46)$2,950 – $5,150
Large fixed (30x46)$2,450 – $4,750
Oversize / custom (44x46+)$4,200 – $9,500

Add 45% over the asphalt baseline for clay tile or concrete tile. Add 70% for natural slate. Add 20% for standing-seam metal. Add 30% for flat-membrane (TPO / EPDM) low-slope roofs because of the curb-mount detail.

Cost drivers

Unit type and size. The skylight unit itself is 35-55% of the total bill on a standard installation. Doubling the size roughly doubles the unit cost. Stepping from fixed to vented manual adds 35%, fixed to vented electric adds 95%, fixed to vented solar adds 70% (the solar premium over manual is the motor and PV panel; solar avoids the wiring run).

Roof material. Asphalt shingles install fastest. Tile roofs require cutting the surrounding tiles cleanly, re-bedding them, and integrating tile-profile flashing — this can add 3-5 labour hours per unit. Slate is the most demanding because broken slates during installation are common and replacement matched slates can be expensive ($12-$40 each).

Retrofit vs new construction. Cutting a new opening in an existing roof requires removing shingles back 18-24 inches on all four sides, cutting through sheathing without nicking the truss webs, doubling or sistering the cut rafter to maintain structural capacity, and adding upper and lower headers. New construction skips all of this — the framers leave a rough opening ready for the skylight before the sheathing goes on. New construction is typically 35-45% cheaper installed.

Drywall shaft finish. A skylight in a cathedral ceiling needs no shaft. A skylight in a typical attic-over-flat-ceiling configuration needs a shaft 24-60 inches deep, framed, insulated, drywalled, taped, mudded, sanded, and painted. The shaft alone can add $400-$1,200 to the bill.

Electrical run. A vented electric skylight needs 110V power. If your attic has an outlet near the opening, the electrician can tap it in 1 hour. If a new dedicated circuit needs to be run from the panel, plan on 3-6 hours and 50-100 feet of cable. Solar-powered vented skylights skip this — the integrated PV panel charges a small battery that drives the motor.

Geographic spread. California (specifically the Bay Area and LA), the Pacific Northwest, Boston-NYC corridor, and high-cost mountain markets (Aspen, Park City) are 25-40% above the national median. The Southeast and Midwest are 10-15% below the national median. Texas and Mountain states sit within 5% of the median.

US codes and standards

US skylight installation is governed by:

  • IRC R308.6 — Skylight and sloped glazing requirements, including the requirement for laminated, tempered or wired safety glazing.
  • IRC R903.4 — Roof drainage and flashing details.
  • IRC R905.2.8.3 — Flashing at skylights for asphalt shingle roofs.
  • ASTM E1886 / E1996 — Impact-resistance test methods for skylights in hurricane and high-velocity wind zones.
  • AAMA / WDMA / CSA 101 / I.S.2 / A440-22 — North American Fenestration Standard, the unified product certification standard for skylights, windows and doors.
  • ENERGY STAR Climate Zone Requirements — U-factor and SHGC requirements per zone, used for the federal residential energy efficiency tax credit.
  • Manufacturer flashing requirements — VELUX, Fakro, Kingspan and Wasco all require their matched flashing kits, or warranty coverage is voided.

Skylight terminology

Curb-mount — the skylight sits on a wooden curb built up off the roof deck. Used on low-slope or flat roofs.

Deck-mount — the skylight is integrated flush into the roof deck with an integrated flashing flange. Lower profile, lower leak rate, used on most pitched roofs above 14 degrees.

Self-flashing — a budget option where the flashing is built into the unit. Cheaper but higher leak rate over 10-15 years.

Apron / sill flashing — the downhill side flashing piece. Laps over the shingles below.

Head flashing — the upslope flashing piece. Lapped UNDER the shingles above and OVER the side flashings.

Step flashing — L-shaped pieces interleaved one-per-shingle-course on each side of the unit.

Counter-flashing — sometimes used on tile or slate roofs to terminate the side flashing into the roof system above.

U-factor — the rate of heat loss through the unit. Lower is better. ENERGY STAR Northern zone requires U-factor of 0.50 or lower; Southern zone allows up to 0.75 with a SHGC restriction.

SHGC (Solar Heat Gain Coefficient) — fraction of incident solar radiation that enters as heat. Lower is better for cooling-dominated climates.

Diagnostic step-by-step (before quoting)

  1. Measure the ceiling location and verify there is attic space above. If the skylight will be in a finished room above (a vaulted ceiling, a second-storey ceiling under an attic), the install is significantly more complex.
  2. Check the rafter spacing from inside the attic. Standard 24-inch on-center rafters comfortably accommodate a small or medium skylight without cutting structural members. Smaller spacing or trusses may require structural engineering.
  3. Check the roof slope at the install location. Below 14 degrees, use a curb-mount or low-slope-rated self-flashing unit. Below 3 degrees, this is a commercial flat-roof detail and probably a different contractor.
  4. Note the roof material and age. A 25-year-old asphalt shingle roof within 5-7 years of replacement is a poor candidate for a new skylight install — the entire flashing assembly will need to be removed and re-installed during the re-roof.
  5. Identify HVAC, plumbing and wiring above the ceiling that may interfere with the rough opening. A vent stack through the proposed location can re-route a project significantly.

Avoiding overcharging and scams

The skylight install market has a small but persistent door-knocker problem after hail or wind events. Red flags:

  • “Storm damage” claims after a routine wind event — insurance fraud setup.
  • Pressure to sign before a written, itemized quote.
  • Cash-only or wire-transfer demands.
  • Refusal to provide a license number or proof of liability insurance.
  • Bundling a $1,800 skylight install with a $14,000 full re-roof at the first visit.
  • Substitute flashing kits — never accept a non-manufacturer flashing. Warranty is voided.

Insist on a written estimate that itemizes the unit model number, size, type, glazing spec, manufacturer flashing kit part number, framing scope, finish scope, permit responsibility, and disposal. Get license and insurance proof before any work begins. A reputable installer is happy to provide manufacturer certification (VELUX 5-Star, Fakro Pro, etc.).

Sources: 2026 HomeAdvisor Skylight Cost Guide; Angi 2026 True Cost Report; IRC 2024 R308.6, R903.4, R905.2.8.3; ASTM E1886, E1996; AAMA / WDMA / CSA 101 / I.S.2 / A440; ENERGY STAR Skylight Climate Zone requirements; VELUX 2026 installer pricing; NRCA Architectural Manual.

Frequently asked questions

How much does it cost to install a skylight in 2026?
Most US homeowners pay $1,650 to $3,800 to install a single medium fixed skylight on an asphalt shingle roof in 2026, with a typical job (one 22x46 VELUX FS fixed unit, double-glazed Low-E, retrofit cut, single storey, debris haul-away and standard permit) landing around $1,965 fully installed. Add roughly $480-$960 for the unit itself when stepping up to a vented manual, $1,200-$1,800 more for vented electric or solar-powered, and 35-50% over the base when the roof is clay tile or natural slate. Source: 2026 HomeAdvisor Skylight Cost Guide, Angi True Cost Report Q1 2026, and direct quotes from VELUX-certified installers in Atlanta, Dallas, Chicago, Boston, Seattle, Denver and San Diego.
What is the difference between a fixed, vented, and tubular skylight?
A fixed skylight is a sealed glazed unit that does not open — the cheapest and most reliable option, ideal for stairwells, hallways, and ceilings above 8 feet where reaching the unit is impractical. A vented (or 'venting') skylight opens to allow hot air to escape and is rated for kitchens, bathrooms and any room where moisture or odor removal matters; manual crank versions add about 35% to the unit cost while electric or solar-powered versions add 95%. A tubular skylight (Sun Tunnel, Solatube) is a 10-14 inch rigid or flexible reflective tube that pipes daylight from a small dome on the roof down through the attic into a fixture-style diffuser in the ceiling below — typically 50-60% the installed cost of a standard fixed skylight, ideal for interior closets, hallways and small bathrooms where a full skylight would be structurally complex.
Do I need a permit to install a skylight?
Yes in nearly every US jurisdiction. The IRC requires a permit for any new roof opening that cuts a structural framing member (rafter or truss). Permit fees typically run $150-$450 in residential markets and require submittal of a framing detail showing how the rough opening will be doubled-up or sistered. Replacing an existing skylight with a same-size unit in the same opening is sometimes treated as a repair (no permit) but most building departments still require one if any flashing, framing or sheathing is touched. Tubular skylights with shaft diameters under 14 inches do not cut framing members in standard rafter spacing and are commonly exempt from permits — confirm with your local building department.
Can I install a skylight myself to save money?
A tubular Sun Tunnel or Solatube is a reasonable DIY project for a confident homeowner — the kit comes with a flashing flange, a flexible reflective tube, and a ceiling diffuser, and the rooftop work involves cutting a 10-14 inch hole through sheathing without touching rafters. Plan on 6-10 hours and $385-$880 in materials for a daylight-only unit. A traditional curb-mount or deck-mount skylight is NOT a DIY-friendly job: framing a rough opening requires doubling rafters and sometimes installing structural ridge support, the flashing kit must be interleaved precisely with shingle courses (with a step-flashing leg per course on each side), and the drywall shaft finish requires interior trade skills. The failure rate among first-time DIY skylight installations exceeds 30% in the first year (leaks, condensation, voided manufacturer warranty).
Will adding a skylight raise my heating and cooling bills?
A modern triple-glazed argon-filled Low-E skylight is rated to U-factor 0.30 or better — roughly comparable to a high-end double-glazed window in the wall. The actual energy penalty depends on orientation (south-facing units gain significant winter heat, summer overheat is mitigated by exterior shades or interior cellular blinds), and on whether the unit is fixed or vented (vented units can dump hot summer attic air, lowering cooling load by 8-15% if sized correctly). ENERGY STAR-certified skylights qualify for residential energy efficiency tax credits through 2032 — up to 30% of the unit cost with a $600 annual cap. The DOE estimates a properly oriented, properly sized skylight is net energy-positive in 70% of US climate zones when blinds are used summer afternoons.
What is the typical skylight lifespan and warranty?
A modern aluminum-clad wood-frame skylight from VELUX, Fakro or Kingspan has a 10-year manufacturer warranty on the unit (longer on the glazing seal) and a realistic service life of 25-30 years before the glazing seal fails or the gasket degrades. Acrylic dome skylights — common on commercial buildings and budget residential — yellow and craze over 12-18 years and should be planned as a periodic replacement. The flashing kit, when installed correctly, matches the roof system life (25-30 years on asphalt shingles, 40+ on metal, 50+ on tile or slate). The most common premature failure is a flashing leak around the upslope head — usually a sign of improper interleaving with shingle courses during installation, not a defect in the skylight itself.
How long does skylight installation take?
A single retrofit skylight on an existing asphalt shingle roof takes 6-10 hours of crew time on the roof plus 4-8 hours of interior work for the drywall shaft and finish — typically completed in 1.5 days from the homeowner's perspective. Cutting through an attic space (no shaft) is faster (one full day). Tubular skylights install in 3-5 hours total. Multiple skylights on the same roof slope can share the same mobilization and add only 4-6 hours per additional unit. Installation in tile or slate adds 3-5 hours per unit because of the special flashing and the careful tile-cutting required to maintain the watertight courses around the new opening.
How do I avoid skylight leaks?
Five rules from the NRCA Architectural Manual: (1) Use the manufacturer's matched flashing kit — never substitute. VELUX, Fakro and the major brands all spec specific apron, sill, side, and head flashings designed to interlock with their unit profile. (2) Interleave the side flashings with each shingle course — they should be invisible from the ground when finished. (3) Run an ice-and-water shield membrane up the head and 6 inches past the side flashings under the shingles. (4) Specify deck-mount over curb-mount where the roof slope allows — deck-mount has a lower leak failure rate over 20 years. (5) Pitch matters: most skylights are rated for 14 degrees (3:12) or steeper. A flatter roof requires a curb extension or a low-slope-rated unit, and condensation risk rises sharply below 4:12 — for lower pitches, specify a self-flashing unit with an integral upstand.

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